IN DEFENSE OF PROCESSED FOOD

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Nonfiction
When fresh isn’t an option

IN DEFENSE OF PROCESSED FOOD:
It’s Not Nearly As Bad as You Think
By Robert L. Shewfelt
273 pp. Springer

Reviewed by David E. Hoekenga, M. D.

Amazingly, a typical American makes 200 food decisions every day. Yet according to Shewfelt, “for all the talk about healthy eating, we are not eating any healthier today than we were at the beginning of the obesity epidemic almost 40 years ago.” We accept without question that whole foods are always better than processed foods; that natural is good and artificial is bad; and that science and technology should not intrude on our food supply.  He believes that none of these assumptions are valid.

So why are Americans fat?  Maybe it is due to fast food, over eating, drinking too much, lack of exercise, lack of will power, because it is inherited, or because it is much easier to put on weight than to take it off. The author feels that each of these factors plays a role in obesity in America, but only focusing on the young will have any real impact on corpulence later in life.

What about processed food? While it’s not fresh or locally produced, and while it contains some additives, Shewfelt claims it is not addictive. Getting more locally produced fresh food to supermarkets and restaurants is good, but it is hard to transport, it rots quickly, and the growers would rather deal with consumers directly.

The author then compares possible food addiction centering on salt, sugar, and fat to drug addiction. However, the evidence suggests food addiction is probably just a pleasure or a craving, and not a true addiction. Shewfelt reports that there are many chemicals in foods to prevent rotting and food poisoning. Chemicals are ubiquitous, and it requires constant vigilance to keep unnecessary chemicals from creeping into foods.

Shewfelt offers valuable insights about vitamins and minerals in foods:

The situation becomes even more confusing when talking about antioxidants in food, which are more plentiful in foods from plants than in those from animals. The free radical theory of aging suggests that oxidation of fats in our bodies is the basis for aging, development of many diseases of civilization like cancer and heart disease, and the general deterioration of our minds and bodies…Vitamins A, C, and E help protect us from oxidation of fats. Minerals, particularly iron, increase oxidation and can lead to problems particularly if we get too much. The fats in the body of most concern are the ones that make up membranes of the cells and smaller components of the cells. Oxidation is part of many important naturally occurring, metabolic processes in humans, including one which converts nutrients in food into energy needed to perform any activity. Oxidation is also destructive when it is not properly controlled. As we age, the ability to defend against the onslaught of oxidation decreases. Taking vitamin supplements does not appear to be enough in itself to defend and repair damaged cell membranes.

Heating, canning, and freezing affect the nutritional value of food, but not for the better. Then he reviews the safety of the American food supply, which he declares to be excellent.

This thoughtful, well-written book concludes with a clarion call for Americans to eat fresh, organic, local foods and buy in bulk (to reduce packaging waste). However, since fresh isn’t always an option, processed food can be a part of a responsible diet.
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